Bird watching with the Taliban -- The snow leopard project -- Afghanistan's biological silk road -- The ordinary extraordinary life in Kabul -- The forgotten peoples on the roof of the world -- The Buddha of Band-e-Amir -- Vampires in the land of light -- The search for the last Afghan cheetah -- Adventures in conservation diplomacy, part I -- Back in the CCCP -- The snow leopard comforter -- Epilogue: the snow leopard project.